Since 2004, when David Chang helped to reconfigure the dining establishment's ideas about what a great restaurant could be with Manhattan's Momofuku Noodle Bar, he has opened more than a dozen restaurants around the world; hosted two seasons of his Netflix documentary series, Ugly Delicious; started a hit podcast, The Dave Chang Show"; published the defunct, much-loved food magazine Lucky Peach; and now written a memoir, the forthcoming Eat a Peach," with a co-author, Gabe Ulla. In doing all that, Chang, 42, has become a food-world icon, broadened the country's palate and made us more thoughtful about what we eat. None of which is much help with moving forward in the wake of the economic destruction that the coronavirus has wrought in the culinary world. "I'm not being hyperbolic in any way," Chang said about the future of the field in which he made his name. "Without government intervention, there will be no service industry."