A good mapo tofu combines a fiery, numbing tangle of Sichuan peppercorns and electric-orange chile oil with the pillowy reprieve of silken tofu. Pork almost always peeks its head into the frame, but more as an accent than as the star of the show. Little, chewy bits of the stir-fried ground pork collapse into the folds of the tofu and soak up extra flavor and spice. When it's really doing its job right, the meat infuses the mixture with savory richness and offers textural contrast to that yielding tofu. But what if we told you there was a way make mapo meatless, without sacrifice or consolation?